Yale sociologist Alka Menon spent years researching how cosmetic surgeons shape beauty standards and “refashion race.” Her recent book looks at how surgeons act as “race brokers,” applying racially-specific guidelines on procedures.
Menon analyzed U.S. and Malaysian practices, finding surgeons in both countries serve as gatekeepers of race-linked beauty ideals. However, American surgeons were more wary of procedures perceived as “whitening,” while Malaysians focused on crafting a natural “Asian” look.
Surgeons walk a line between advancing pop culture trends and worrying unrealistic expectations lead patients to excessive procedures. The prevailing early U.S. standard was the “ski jump” nose, departing from ethnic features. But diversifying ideals led to more race-specific standards.
Menon explores the tensions between business and medicine in cosmetic surgery. Though a niche practice, it provides insight into evolving concepts of race, beauty, and healthcare.