High school can be a breeding ground for anxieties, including the pressure of always having a new outfit. For Emilie Delaye, now 21, in Pennsylvania, the fear of being labeled an “outfit repeater” was real. She vividly remembers the dilemma: “I have to go out Friday night, but I don’t want to wear the same outfit.”
Traditionally, budget-conscious teenagers would head to stores like Forever 21 for a $12 party top. However, in 2015, Shein (pronounced SHE-in), a Chinese online store, burst onto the scene. Their shirts were available for a fraction of the price: just $6 or even $3.
The affordability astounded Delaye. “How can they do this?” she wondered. Her friends and their mothers were equally smitten. Shein quickly became a sensation.
But the question remains: How can Shein offer such low prices? The company is now grappling with a slew of legal issues, including concerns about labor ethics, copyright violations, and import taxes. Despite this, it’s one of the fastest-growing online retailers.
Shein, a proponent of microtrends, primarily caters to Generation Z and millennial women who value sustainability. These shoppers have driven a resurgence in thrift shopping and resale. Yet, Shein carved out its niche in the era of social media and microtrends.
“They were so quickly changing,” Delaye recalls. “This week, we’re wearing zebra print — next week, we’re wearing cheetah print. You didn’t want to be caught wearing zebra print when everybody else was wearing cheetah print.”
Shein updates its website with up to 10,000 new items daily, catering to all sizes and preferences. The company doesn’t produce clothes in large quantities. It starts with a few hundred and manufactures more only when demand is high. This allows it to turn a design into a garment in as little as 10 days.
Shein dubs this approach “on-demand” or “ultrafast fashion.” It has captivated many, thanks in part to TikTok and its #sheinhaul videos showcasing piles of polyester pouring out of shipping boxes and young women flaunting new outfits.
Despite the allure of savings, concerns have arisen. Critics argue that the true cost of a $5 garment, considering its impact on the environment and garment workers, is much higher. Shein has faced a barrage of controversies, from artists suing the company for design theft to allegations of exploiting import tax loopholes and employing forced labor.
Shein’s Peter Pernot-Day asserts the company’s commitment to avoiding forced and child labor and complying with local laws. He highlights Shein’s efforts to improve its image, including using recycled materials, recyclable packaging, and employing in-house designers.
In the ongoing debate about import tax laws, Shein acknowledges its unique shipping model, which sends small orders directly to customers. This strategy exempts most of its shipments from taxes. The company expresses willingness to work with government and industry stakeholders to reform relevant laws.
As part of its U.S. expansion, Shein has relocated its headquarters to Singapore, established a distribution center in Indiana, and signed a partnership with Forever 21. Rumors suggest it may go public on a U.S. stock exchange.
Shein has seen remarkable growth in recent years. According to a UBS survey, the number of women who named Shein as their primary clothing shopping destination increased significantly from 2020 to 2022. This summer, it was the second most downloaded fashion app in the U.S., only trailing a Chinese rival.
The average Shein shopper prioritizes price and the latest trends, distinguishing them from the typical U.S. shopper who values comfort and value.
Notably, Emilie Delaye, once an avid Shein shopper, has altered her buying habits. She’s now focused on sustainability and cost-per-wear, moving away from fast fashion. However, many of her friends and family members still shop at Shein, reflecting the complex relationship people have with fast fashion.