Discovering London’s Fashion Heritage: A Spotlight on the Jewish Community’s Influence
The “Fashion City” exhibition at the Museum of London Docklands offers a captivating insight into the profound impact of migrants on shaping London as a global fashion hub. It’s a compelling lens through which to explore the rich history of London’s Jewish communities and their remarkable contributions to the fashion industry.
In a world of ever-changing fashion, the Jewish community played a significant role in revolutionizing the industry, from tailoring to retail. “Fashion City” showcases the journey of Jewish Londoners who engaged in various segments of the fashion world, leaving a lasting imprint.
Between the late 19th and mid-20th centuries, around 200,000 Jewish individuals immigrated to Britain, many of them bringing design and clothing-making skills. The exhibition highlights the importance of portable trades that allowed individuals to establish businesses and earn a living quickly, a valuable asset for a community that often had to relocate for safety.
Of those who arrived in London, approximately 60% ventured into the fashion industry, with the majority settling in the East End. The exhibition not only celebrates those who gained recognition for their creations but also sheds light on those who faced challenges in pursuing their dreams.
A significant part of the exhibition tells the story of Molmax, a family-owned leather goods company that relocated to London in 1938. This story is a personal one for Dr. Lucie Whitmore, the exhibition’s curator, as it was her great-grandfather who founded the company. Molmax specialized in luggage and handbags, producing items for prestigious brands like Harrods.
“Crossing Paths,” another segment of the display, explores the contributions of other migrant communities to London’s fashion industry. It includes the story of Anwara Begum, a Bengali seamstress who worked tirelessly at her sewing machine to supply both Bengali and Jewish factories in the East End.
Jewish retailers like Cecil Gee, Chelsea Girl (now River Island), and Wallis introduced innovative approaches to selling garments and opened stores in the West End, changing the way people shopped. Their contributions transformed London into a fashion capital.
Jewish shop owners also played a pivotal role in making Carnaby Street a symbol of “Swinging London” in the 1960s. Retailers organized attention-grabbing stunts, such as having bands play in shops or dressing women in shop windows. Iconic celebrities like Tom Jones and Christine Spooner were even employed to walk a cheetah along the street to attract shoppers.
Jewish designers became iconic figures in pop culture. For example, Mr. Fish, who designed dresses for men, counted music legends Mick Jagger and David Bowie among his admirers.
The exhibition culminates with a wedding dress created by Netty Spiegel, who arrived in London as a 15-year-old on the Kindertransport, while the rest of her family perished in the Holocaust. Netty fulfilled her dream of becoming a fashion designer, setting up her own couture house, Neymar, where she crafted exquisite wedding dresses for her clients.
The “Fashion City” exhibition is a testament to the real and personal stories that have shaped the fashion industry and continue to hold deep meaning for many individuals. It invites visitors to reflect on the rich history of London’s Jewish communities and their remarkable contributions.
Don’t miss “Fashion City” at the Museum of London Docklands, on display until April 14.