In what has become the most buzzed-about moment in the fashion world this year, renowned British designer Phoebe Philo has returned with her long-awaited debut collection, marking a triumphant comeback six years after her departure from the fashion house Céline.
This momentous occasion gave Philo’s devoted followers, often affectionately referred to as “Philophiles,” their first glimpse of her creations. The collection, in its entirety, embodies the understated, yet profoundly stylish aesthetic that she is celebrated for.
Loyal admirers had been eagerly awaiting this day for quite some time. In 2021, the announcement of her return with her eponymous brand created waves of anticipation. As of July this year, her website started inviting fans to join a mailing list. The grand revelation took place during Paris fashion week in the previous month when Phoebe Philo announced her official return on the 30th of October.
Philo’s signature style, characterized by simple elegance, won her a legion of fans during her tenure as creative director at Céline, where she held the position for nearly a decade.
The new collection continues to reflect this iconic style with classic cuts and a palette of muted colors, including shades like “shroom,” “cigar,” and “bitter brown.” The offerings include high-necked polo necks, ideal for tucking hair in—a styling trick that Philo pioneered—alongside club loafers with architectural heels, squared-off toes, and tailored blazers in wool mohair.
Yet, the collection also showcases more daring designs, such as high-waisted wool trousers with full-length zips, which the website suggests can be “worn open” (these have already sold out). A viscose twill coat with all-over embroidery and elongated bell sleeves bears a silhouette reminiscent of Big Bird. Additionally, a tasseled leather bomber jacket with a snapped stand collar adds an edgy touch to the collection.
However, it’s essential to note that the price tags are decidedly high, with items like a leather jacket with an attachable scarf priced at £5,900, a double-breasted shearling coat at £12,000, a large chocolate brown bag at £6,200, and a pair of leggings at £700. Even a seemingly ordinary white T-shirt carries a hefty price tag of £800. Several pieces have already sold out, including a sterling silver necklace featuring the repeated word “Mum,” priced at over £3,000.
One contributing factor to the swift sales is the limited production runs. The debut collection, referred to as “A1,” consists of 150 styles to be released between now and mid-December, with an average production quantity of no more than 100 of each item. Sustainability plays a pivotal role in this strategy.
Phoebe Philo’s collection is accompanied by a poignant statement: “Our aim is to create a product that reflects permanence. The Phoebe Philo business model is designed to create a responsible balance between production and demand. For us, this means producing notably less than anticipated want.”
This strategy is partly driven by the desire to harness and build upon the immense fervor surrounding her return, which is already at an all-time high.