After a two-year wait, fashion enthusiasts and Philo aficionados were on the edge of their seats as Phoebe Philo unveiled her eponymous brand in a highly-anticipated online launch at 3.02 pm on Monday.
Within hours, the majority of the 150-piece collection, featuring luxury items like a £12,000 shearling jacket, had completely sold out. The coveted pieces were distinguished by a distinctive maroon colorway, symbolizing their exclusivity.
Social media buzzed with reactions, as Instagram users humorously quipped, “Smiling at the clothes, but my wallet says no,” and another suggested that Philo’s fashion command went beyond merely opening one’s purse – it encouraged selling houses, robbing banks, and even dabbling in credit card fraud.
Aoife Byrne, a retail analyst at Edited, emphasized, “Philo’s reputation precedes her,” highlighting her unique ability to launch products exclusively online, without a physical store, thanks to her devoted fanbase.
This momentous return comes six years after Phoebe Philo’s departure as the creative director of Céline, back when the brand retained its acute accent. Philo, the enigmatic social media figure, seemingly disappeared from the fashion scene until 2021 when she announced her return, this time under her name and vision, with a minority backing from luxury conglomerate LVMH.
The excitement surrounding her return was palpable. The Phoebe Philo Instagram page garnered over 300k followers, even without a single post. In contrast to other brands that would have capitalized on this hype through teaser videos and countdown timers, details about the launch remained sparse, leaving fans in suspense.
Those who had registered their interest on the brand’s site were informed of the launch date, October 30, but were left without a specific time. As a result, many impatiently awoke before dawn to refresh the site.
When the online store finally went live, it was met with glitches and crashes, likely due to the sheer volume of visitors eager to confirm the prices of iconic items, like the £6,200 black leather tote bag. All the prices proved to be exorbitant, with many items selling out within minutes, including a £3,000 necklace bearing the word “mum.” This rapid sellout underlines Philo’s enduring appeal and the unwavering loyalty of her followers, affectionately known as Philophiles.
Yana McKillop, a stylist and ardent Philo enthusiast who owns over 50 items from Philo’s previous tenure at Celine, initially felt underwhelmed by the collection due to her high expectations. However, she ultimately purchased a grey dress and one of the small bags, which grew on her after closer examination.
Philo designs for women but her brand isn’t accessible to everyone. In addition to the steep pricing, the sizing options are somewhat limited, spanning from a UK 6 to UK 14. This exclusivity mirrors the standard practice in the luxury market, where many brands like Gucci also offer limited sizing options.
Phoebe Philo does accept returns but doesn’t facilitate exchanges, making it challenging to secure a different size if needed. This situation is expected to boost the luxury resale market, with some questioning whether certain buyers intended to resell items at even higher prices.
The true impact of Philo’s return, however, will be felt on the high street, as much of her collection reflects her distinctive design DNA, often emulated by retail companies on a weekly basis.