A decade ago, fashion writer Derek Guy had a conversation with a young Parisian student named Brian about his wardrobe. Brian’s collection of clothes, simple yet elegant, neatly fit into the compact closet common in pre-20th-century housing. From a camel-toned overcoat to black jeans, every item was thoughtfully mixed and matched.
Ten years later, Guy revisited Brian and discovered that many of the same jeans, pants, and jackets were still part of his wardrobe. They remained not only wearable but continued to be fashionable long after most people would have discarded them.
“He created a functional, stylish wardrobe with just a few pieces,” says Guy. “The lessons from his wardrobe are relevant to everyone. You don’t need designer clothes to achieve what he did. You can shop at Uniqlo, J.Crew, Target, or Gap.”
In an era where fast fashion rapidly transitions from design to retail, often lasting no more than a handful of wearings, the idea of keeping clothes for more than a single season, let alone a decade, may seem outdated. The average American purchased over one garment per week last year, spending about $17 on each, according to the American Apparel & Footwear Association.
However, the fleeting pleasure of fast fashion comes at a significant environmental cost. In 2018, 11.3 million tons of textiles ended up in landfills in the United States, contributing to environmental degradation and labor violations within the fashion industry.
As you consider updating your winter wardrobe, the urge to replace that sweater from a few years ago or grab something from the discount rack may be tempting. But before you make that decision, think about whether you want to be left with a pile of discarded clothes or a wardrobe that holds meaning, lasting not forever, but at least for a significant part of your life.
Here’s how to determine if the clothing you’re eyeing has the potential to endure for a decade or more.
**Planned Obsolescence:**
In the 1930s, during the Great Depression, manufacturers faced idle factories and began exploring ways to make their products less durable to encourage more frequent replacements, a practice known as “planned obsolescence.” Today, planned obsolescence has given way to “psychological obsolescence,” as consumers are persuaded to replace perfectly functional products with new ones featuring minimal cosmetic changes, often driven by trends.
Fashion has taken psychological obsolescence to new heights. Clothes often lose their appeal in the buyer’s mind long before they show any signs of wear and tear. The desirability of most fashion is influenced by designers, retailers, or peers, rather than personal preferences. This drives psychological obsolescence, where changing trends result in changing satisfaction.
**Emotional Durability:**
To counter this, Jonathan Chapman, a professor at Carnegie Mellon University’s School of Design, introduced the concept of emotional durability. Clothes serve as extensions of our identities and values. By recognizing the emotional value of items rather than just desiring them, fashion can become timeless.
Building a wardrobe meant to last for a decade involves identifying or cultivating pieces that hold personal meaning. You can explore the Contentedness Thread online, where fashion enthusiasts celebrate ordinary clothes that have become an integral part of their lives.
For instance, someone spoke about their leather jacket and jeans, stating, “If either of these were ruined, I would have to give them a Viking burial and salute them as they burn in the ocean.”
While you may not hold funerals for your clothes, you can develop a collection of items that appreciate in emotional value beyond their material cost.
**How to Build an Emotionally Durable Wardrobe:**
Numerous paths lead to emotional durability, from high fashion to discovering what suits you, regardless of the price. Instead of chasing trends, focus on creating a wardrobe that reflects your personal style. This approach, inspired by recombining pieces from various eras, offers endless possibilities.
Resist the temptation of impulsive purchases driven by sales. Set a price limit for each item, ensuring that it’s high enough to make you consider your choice carefully but low enough to allow for lasting, quality purchases.
**Learn to Recognize Quality and Value:**
Determining what’s best for you doesn’t always mean breaking the bank. Quality can be found at various price points, especially through online marketplaces for used and vintage clothing.
By familiarizing yourself with well-made garments, you can recognize the hallmarks of quality, ensuring your purchases are based on substance rather than brand name.
**Find Your Personal Style:**
Embrace the freedom to mix pieces from different eras and styles, creating a personal fashion statement. Unlike previous generations, there’s no longer a single, universally recognizable style, offering you the liberty to follow your taste.
**Avoid the Temptation of Sales:**
While discounts are enticing, buying something just because it’s cheap, rather than because you genuinely love it, is counterproductive.
**Set a Price:**
Decide on a budget for each clothing item. This amount should be high enough to make you think twice but low enough to allow you to invest in lasting pieces.
In the end, consider what you aim to achieve when you change your clothing. The most enduring clothes may have less to do with the garments themselves and more with the individuals who wear them.