The recent edition of Lakmé Fashion Week in India brought sustainability to the forefront of discussions, prompting a closer look at the readiness of Indian fashion designers to embrace the eco-chic movement. Jointly organized by Lakmé, Reliance Brands, and the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), this four-day extravaganza showcased not only glamour on the catwalks but also a noteworthy competition challenging young designers to create outfits using eco-friendly materials.
Amidst the clinking wine glasses and glittering runways, it’s evident that a paradigm shift is occurring within India’s fashion industry. Designers are increasingly recognizing the need to minimize their environmental footprint, with some transitioning entirely to reusable materials and experimenting with unconventional sources such as used carpet and agricultural waste. The rise of eco-prints featuring plants and flowers is also a notable trend.
**Are Indian Designers Ready for Sustainability?**
India’s fashion industry is poised for significant growth, expected to reach $115-125 billion by 2025. However, with this growth comes the responsibility to address the environmental impact. The fast fashion market is often criticized, but the luxury segment, driven by a surge in young Indians with higher disposable incomes, also bears scrutiny.
Critics accuse the industry of hypocrisy, using terms like “sustainability” and “eco-friendly” for marketing without tangible actions. Pooja Singh, fashion and luxury editor at Mint Lounge newspaper, notes the industry’s challenge of balancing constant creation with environmental responsibility.
Jaspreet Chandok, group vice-president of Reliance Brands, acknowledges the complexity of luxury fashion’s role in climate change. While calling for innovative materials and technologies, he emphasizes that change is a “work in progress” and cannot involve simply ceasing production or consumption.
**Beyond Environmental Sustainability: A Holistic Approach**
In the Indian context, sustainability extends beyond the environment to include the well-being of artisans crucial to the fashion market. India, a major exporter of garments and textiles, relies on highly skilled workers. However, there have been allegations of exploitative conditions, a concern that continues under Indian labels. Despite progress, critics argue that fair working conditions are yet to be fully realized.
Making fashion sustainable involves navigating complexities. Singh emphasizes that producing less may seem a straightforward solution, but millions of jobs are tied to the industry. Eco-friendly clothing, while reducing carbon footprints, also poses challenges like potential deforestation.
**Shifting Trends Post-COVID-19: Slow Luxury**
The COVID-19 pandemic has triggered a shift in consumer behavior towards sustainability. Designers are adapting, with some opting for one annual collection instead of seasonal ones. FDCI chairperson Sunil Sethi highlights the emergence of “slow luxury,” focusing on handcrafted, enduring ensembles that defy seasonal trends. Notable designers like Abraham and Thakore are leading this charge, reinventing Indian couture with a commitment to eco-friendly fabrics rooted in traditional textiles and crafts.
As the industry progresses, each step towards sustainability is a step forward. The “quiet revolutionaries” like Abraham and Thakore demonstrate that creating unique, signature pieces can be the antidote to disposable fashion—a philosophy that resonates not just in clothing but in every aspect of life.