For Jeanette Toomer, the hours spent perfecting her hair in the 1970s were more than a style choice—they were a cultural statement. As a Black woman embracing natural hair during the Black Power movement, she later succumbed to societal pressures, using chemical straighteners containing formaldehyde. Now, after a cancer diagnosis potentially linked to those products, Toomer advocates for awareness.
Last month, the FDA proposed banning formaldehyde in hair products, acknowledging its links to cancer. This move is crucial for Black women, who spend nine times more on ethnic hair and beauty products than non-Black women.
Studies reveal alarming risks, with one NIH study linking formaldehyde-based products to increased uterine and breast cancer risks, particularly affecting Black women. This proposal marks a crucial step, but advocates stress the need for broader regulations, addressing the 85-year-old guidelines that have hindered cosmetic oversight.
The lack of regulation in the U.S. contrasts sharply with Europe, where over 2,400 chemicals in cosmetics are outlawed compared to only 11 in the U.S. The Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) will grant the FDA more authority starting next month, a positive stride, but it falls short of banning certain harmful substances like mercury and parabens.
Lobbying efforts by the Personal Care Products Council, representing 90% of the beauty industry, have historically impeded significant cosmetic regulation changes. In 2021-2022, they spent $2.6 million on lobbying, contributing to the minimal updates since 1938. The new law has limitations, preventing states from enacting stronger regulations, limiting its impact on ingredient safety.
Amidst these challenges, researchers like Ami Zota stress the importance of addressing formaldehyde and related chemicals across all personal care products. Zota’s work highlights the “Environmental Injustice of Beauty,” connecting racialized beauty norms to unequal exposures and health issues.
Jeanette Toomer’s story emphasizes the urgency for change. Her journey, from conforming to societal standards to facing potential health consequences, underscores the need for informed choices. As the FDA takes steps towards regulation, individuals and advocates strive to ensure a safer, more equitable beauty landscape.