In a bold departure from the traditional secrecy surrounding luxury brand launches, Pharrell Williams, Louis Vuitton’s creative director, took a distinctive approach during Paris men’s fashion week. The star-studded event featured Bradley Cooper, Carey Mulligan, Lil Yachty, and the K-pop band Riize in attendance.
Leading up to the show, Williams teased fans with glimpses of the autumn/winter 2024 collection, showcasing an American western theme. Using a fake Instagram account, he shared images wearing a brown suede Stetson hat and sketches by animator Ron Husband, creating anticipation for the grand reveal.
The western theme came to life as guests entered the pop-up box-shaped venue, surrounded by a burnt dust-colored catwalk and a giant video screen projecting a desert vista. The collection, inspired by ranch wear with a high-end honky-tonk twist, featured silk yoked shirts, embellished denim chaps, and carved leather work inspired by stock saddles. The runway displayed a celebration of diversity, with models showcasing a range of cowboy hats, reflecting the true origins of cowboys.
Pharrell Williams emphasized the historical accuracy of the collection, stating, “When you see cowboys portrayed, you never really get to see what some of the original cowboys looked like. They looked like us. They looked like me. They were black and they were Native American.”
The inclusive messaging extended to accessories made in collaboration with Native American artists, featuring parfleche motifs and hand-painted desert flowers. The soundtrack, co-composed by Williams and Lakota “Hokie” Clairmont, added to the cultural celebration.
While the collection targeted the luxury market with standout pieces like mirrored “Cowmooflage” trunks, Williams also introduced more practical items, rooted in classic American western wardrobe – what he referred to as “worker-wear.” Collaborating with Timberland, the collection featured chunky wheat-colored boots, merging fashion with durability.
Despite the high-end offerings, Williams acknowledged the need for lasting value, stating, “If you are going to spend your disposable income in a time like this, it needs to be on something that is actually going to last.”
Louis Vuitton’s annual earnings conference will provide insights into the collection’s performance, following the brand’s historic achievement of €20 billion in annual sales in 2022.