In the realm of Hollywood hairstyling, Black actors have often faced challenges with on-set hairstylists, ranging from a lack of expertise in working with coily textures to microaggressive behavior. However, when a film purposefully showcases and celebrates natural Black hairstyles in a period setting, it becomes a standout achievement.
Nakoya Yancey, the hair department head for “The Book of Clarence,” shares her perspective on showcasing the creativity of Black hair in film. “From chosen styles to adornments, it all contributes to the plotline while staying true to the historical era,” she explains, emphasizing the importance of authenticity.
Working on Black period films presents a unique challenge: a scarcity of reference photos. Yancey notes the absence of images from biblical-era films, leading her to draw inspiration from African communities in the ’40s, ’50s, and ’60s. The film incorporates styles from the Hamar and Afar tribes of Ethiopia, Fulani braids from West Africa, and Bantu knots from Southern Africa, showcasing a rich tapestry of cultural influences.
The involvement of Black hairstylists in these projects is crucial, as they prioritize embracing natural textures rather than concealing them. For “The Color Purple,” set in early 1900s rural Georgia, hairstylist Andrea Bowman emphasizes the importance of honoring natural textures and creativity achievable with coily, natural hair.
Styling Black hair in period films goes beyond aesthetics; it involves diligent care between scenes. Andrea Bowman emphasizes the necessity of moisturizing and detangling to maintain hair health, a sentiment echoed by Nakoya Yancey. Yancey reveals her secret weapon: a customized oil-in-moisturizer blend, paired with frequent steam treatments, to ensure the continuous manipulation of hair without compromising health.
Styling Black hair is an art that demands respect and expertise, especially in the entertainment industry. Black talent should not be burdened with concerns about whether beauty professionals understand and appreciate their unique textures. As demonstrated by “The Book of Clarence” and “The Color Purple,” genuine investment and inclusivity from hairstylists and makeup artists leave a lasting and powerful impact.