In the vibrant tapestry of African fashion, Lagos Fashion Week has shone as a biannual extravaganza since its inception in 2011. Drawing top design houses, prestigious sponsors, and a global audience, it’s been a beacon of creativity and inclusivity.
In Nigeria, a nation steeped in conservatism and religious fervor, where LGBTQ individuals face staggering levels of discrimination, Lagos Fashion Week emerged as a sanctuary for marginalized voices and innovative brands challenging societal norms.
For over a decade, pioneers like Orange Culture and Maxivive have used the runway to spark dialogues on gender fluidity and sexual identity. However, recent years have seen LGBTQ inclusivity face mounting opposition amidst Nigeria’s escalating anti-LGBTQ legislation and cultural hostility.
In 2014, Nigeria enacted the SSMPA law criminalizing same-sex relationships, marriages, and LGBTQ advocacy. This legislative climate has seeped into the fashion industry, evidenced by instances like the cancellation of Maxivive’s 2023 show, deemed “too gay” by organizers.
While there have been groundbreaking moments, such as the debut of transgender model Fola Francis at Lagos Fashion Week, her experience underscored the challenges. Despite her historic appearances, images of Francis were conspicuously absent from official channels, reflecting deeper societal resistance.
In response to these constraints, a growing number of Nigerian fashion labels have chosen alternative avenues, staging private shows away from the spotlight. Brands like Tzar Studios and Weiz Dhurm Franklyn curate clandestine presentations, fostering environments where they can authentically express their ethos.
For Udiahgebi and Aso Nigeria, known for their androgynous designs, private showcases offer liberation from societal constraints. These intimate settings allow designers to embrace their vision without fear of censorship or backlash.
Yet, amidst the struggle for LGBTQ visibility, there remains optimism. Kayode Timileyin, founder of Queercity Media, envisions a future where fashion ignites conversations and challenges norms openly.
While the journey towards inclusivity in African fashion may be fraught with obstacles, these private showcases serve as vital sanctuaries for self-expression in a society grappling with change.