At the World Perfumery Congress 2024, Givaudan introduced its groundbreaking House of Naturals program. Designed to emphasize the company’s expertise in natural ingredients, this initiative is centered around the creation of Campus 52, a state-of-the-art center of excellence located in Grasse, in the south of France. Premium Beauty News had the opportunity to speak with Xavier Renard, Global Head of Fine Fragrances, and Maxence Billas, Head of Naturals, at Givaudan to gain deeper insights into this innovative project.
What is behind the launch of House Of Naturals?
Givaudan’s House of Naturals aims to showcase its extensive experience in the production of natural ingredients. The company’s roots can be traced back to Roure, which merged with Givaudan in 1991 and was the first Grasse-headquartered firm to establish a trade counter in Madagascar. Over the years, Givaudan has expanded its expertise through strategic acquisitions such as Naturex, a leader in botanical extraction, and Albert Vieille, which specializes in natural ingredients for perfumes and flavors.
This project represents Givaudan’s efforts to unify its vast network of ingredient producers from around the world into a single entity based in Grasse. This centralized approach will streamline the production of natural ingredients for perfumery, ensuring the highest standards of quality and sustainability.
How is this project coming to fruition?
Xavier Renard: “We acquired land in Grasse, where we plan to build our new Campus 52. This facility will include a factory for processing natural ingredients and an experiential space for our customers. The Center of Excellence will oversee global supply chain management, ensuring the integrity and quality of our natural ingredients.”
Renard further explained that the new entity will host a perfumer responsible for guiding innovation alongside Givaudan’s creation division. This collaboration will help define the unique qualities of each ingredient. Ultimately, the company’s Monsartroux and Vallauris sites will be consolidated into the Grasse location.
What is at stake?
Maxence Billas: “This project aims to provide our perfumers with the best natural ingredients, whether they are well-known or newly developed materials. With House of Naturals, we strive to achieve unmatched quality and uniqueness, continually expanding the natural palette available to our perfumers.”
What do you mean by innovation when natural ingredients are concerned?
Maxence Billas: “Innovation in perfumery starts in the field. Givaudan’s strength in agronomy allows us to implement eco-responsible, regenerative agricultural practices that respect biodiversity. We also engage in botanical innovation through varietal selection, which brings differentiation and uniqueness to our natural palette. This involves selecting botanical varieties or sub-varieties based on various parameters, including climate adaptability.”
Billas also highlighted efforts to reduce distillation times—a typically long and energy-intensive process—by employing physical or enzymatic pretreatments of plants. These methods facilitate easier access to odorous molecules and potentially reveal new olfactory facets.
What about technological-based innovation?
Maxence Billas: “A key aspect of this program is advancing greener extraction techniques. Many ingredients currently rely on distillation or solvent extraction, which can be energy-intensive and involve petrochemical-based solvents. Our R&D efforts focus on developing more efficient, cleaner solvents capable of extracting sufficient odorous molecules while minimizing environmental impact. Although our industry has made progress, we must continue to explore new avenues to reduce our carbon footprint.”
With new ingredients in the sights?
Maxence Billas: “Indeed, these new technologies can reveal unique facets of classic ingredients. Through House of Naturals, we aim to engage perfumers in creating a signature specific to Givaudan. Techniques like fractionation can highlight distinct aspects of an ingredient, such as the green, fruity, or animal nuances of jasmine.”
Ultimately, the goal is to enhance the perfumer’s palette with the full spectrum of a material’s facets, offering a bespoke and haute-couture experience of natural ingredients. This approach not only elevates the natural ingredient experience but also underscores Givaudan’s commitment to innovation and sustainability in the world of perfumery.