The collection’s black-and-white palette, a nod to the iconic Miss Dior logo, projected a combat-ready urban vibe, with monochrome bombers accented by bright red details. An all-white tuxedo with sharp fastenings evoked a touch of Hannibal Lecter menace, while metallic accents, from shimmering embroidery to butterfly motifs, added a touch of delicacy to the sharpness of the designs.
Yet, for all its urban grit, the show wasn’t without its moments of softer, playful contrast. Breton-striped swimwear offered a surprising, and ultimately incongruous, interlude in an otherwise aggressive, youth-oriented lineup. Chiuri’s latest offering, much like her past work, refuses to adhere to a singular theme, with asymmetry, athleticism, and autonomy at its heart.
Elsewhere, Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent collection for Spring 2025 struck a brooding note with its preppy, ’70s-inspired flair, while Anrealage’s Kunihiko Morinaga fused surreal, space-age elements with traditional couture. Vaquera, celebrating its 10th anniversary, offered a bold yet introspective show, blending its rebellious DNA with a sharper focus on wearability.