The event was more than a mere fashion show; it was a carefully orchestrated celebration of Chanel’s deep-rooted connection with China. Spanning a dramatic black wooden catwalk over the glassy waters of West Lake, with a pagoda-style roof and crescent moon bridge as a backdrop, the show was a visual feast that captivated over 1,000 guests, with more than half being top-spending Chinese clients.
Financially, Chanel continues to demonstrate remarkable global strength. The brand reported an impressive $19.7 billion in global revenue for 2023, representing a significant 16% increase from the previous year. This performance positions Chanel as a formidable competitor, closing the gap with luxury market leaders like Louis Vuitton.
The collection’s inspiration traced back to Coco Chanel’s fascination with 19th-century Chinese lacquered Coromandel screens, particularly a treasured piece displayed in her Paris apartment. This personal connection was woven throughout the designs, with outfits featuring a carefully curated color palette of black, jade green, and gold foil that echoed the screen’s intricate details.
Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel’s president of fashion, emphasized the brand’s genuine commitment to China, noting that their relationship extends beyond mere commerce. “We buy a lot from China too,” he explained. “Most of our silk and cashmere comes from China, not because of price, but because it is the best quality.”
The fashion show was a masterclass in storytelling through design. Sharp pleated silk dresses referenced traditional Chinese folding fans, while pearl accessories nodded to both Chinese and Parisian aesthetics. Tweeds adorned with delicate water lily embroideries and quilted jackets echoing traditional Chinese styles demonstrated a nuanced understanding of cultural symbolism.
A significant highlight was the Metiers d’Art collection, which showcased the extraordinary skills of over 800 craftspeople. This approach underscores Chanel’s philosophy that true luxury lies in exceptional craftsmanship and human skill, not just brand prestige.
The event comes at a critical time for luxury brands in China. The post-pandemic market has experienced a spending slowdown, and increasing geopolitical tensions have sparked a growing preference for local brands. Pavlovsky acknowledged this challenge, stating that luxury is not immune to economic fluctuations and that meaningful reconnection is crucial.
While the brand continues its search for a new creative director following Virginie Viard’s departure, Chanel remains confident in its strong design team. Pavlovsky emphasized that the brand’s identity transcends any single artistic director, maintaining a commitment to collaborative creativity.
As Chanel continues to navigate the complexities of the Chinese luxury market, this Hangzhou show represents more than a fashion event. It is a strategic, culturally sensitive approach to rebuilding desire and connection in one of the world’s most important luxury markets.