Calvin Klein’s New Era: First Female Creative Director Reimagines American Fashion Through Cinematic Lens

In a historic moment for American fashion, Calvin Klein marked its runway return after a six-and-a-half-year hiatus with the debut collection of Veronica Leoni, the brand’s first female creative director. The star-studded show drew industry icons including Kate Moss, the brand’s legendary ’90s face, Calvin Klein himself, and supermodel Christy Turlington.

Leoni’s collection masterfully balanced heritage with innovation, addressing what she described as her greatest challenge: drawing inspiration from the archives while avoiding mere nostalgia. The show opened with a striking black mock-turtle knee-length dress, setting the tone for a collection rich in precise tailoring within a sophisticated black-white-greige palette.

The 41-year-old designer, who identifies herself as part of the “CK One generation,” introduced playful elements that brightened the minimalist foundation. Awards-season-ready modern monochrome ballgowns shared the runway with vibrant pieces, including a head-turning rose-pink off-the-shoulder dress and a flowing tomato-red gown. Clever accessories like miniature animal-print clutch bags paid homage to the iconic CK One bottle silhouette.

Notably successful were the contemporary interpretations of ’90s silhouettes, featuring slim-cut trousers paired with shrunken sweaters layered over shirts – an aesthetic reminiscent of Gwyneth Paltrow’s memorable looks in “Sliding Doors.” The collection’s moodboard drew inspiration from diverse cultural icons, including David Byrne’s signature oversized shoulders and the classic style of ’90s power couple Paltrow and Brad Pitt.

Leoni, who resides in Rome with her wife, brings impressive credentials to her role, having worked with fashion’s minimalist masters at Jil Sander, The Row, and CELINE under Phoebe Philo. She launched her own label, Quira, in 2021, before taking the helm at Calvin Klein.

The collection reflected Leoni’s “personal dream of America,” shaped by cinematic influences that preceded her first visit to New York. She transformed these silver screen inspirations into runway reality, creating distinct characters from the sexy worker to the taxi driver, from Jessica Rabbit to Clark Kent.

The presentation received a significant endorsement from Calvin Klein himself, who has maintained a low profile since his 2004 retirement. The 82-year-old designer expressed his approval of the collection, notably mentioning his interest in purchasing one of the new coats.

While the brand faces current challenges, including recent Chinese trade restrictions affecting its parent company PVH, this debut collection signals a fresh creative direction. It offers a more optimistic interpretation of American style compared to the brand’s last runway show in 2018, when then-designer Raf Simons presented a darker vision of Americana.