Sculptural Inspiration: How Phyllida Barlow’s Art Transformed Roksanda’s London Fashion Week Collection
The intersection of fine art and high fashion took center stage at London Fashion Week as designer Roksanda Ilinčić paid homage to the late sculptor Phyllida Barlow with a collection that brilliantly translated the artist’s bold aesthetic into wearable art.
Set against the stark backdrop of a 16th-floor brutalist office space, Roksanda’s latest showcase featured dramatic ballgowns crafted from vibrant felt that seemed to defy gravity – a direct nod to Barlow’s iconic teetering towers of mixed materials that challenged gallery spaces with their audacious presence and scale.
“I love the way she created worlds out of discarded material,” Ilinčić explained before her show. “And I wanted to challenge myself in the same way.” This creative philosophy manifested in pieces constructed from remnants of previous collections, with vivid felt scraps assembled to create entirely new silhouettes that honored Barlow’s resourceful spirit.
The collection’s revolutionary approach to texture and orientation was particularly striking. Traditional elements were deliberately subverted – raffia appeared with sea urchin-like tendrils pointing skyward rather than downward, while a seemingly conventional wool coat revealed its rebellious nature when models turned to display fake fox fur reversed so that the tufts reached upward. Oversized sequins reminiscent of Pringles chips added to the collection’s sense of playful disruption.
This topsy-turvy aesthetic created a captivating tension throughout the show, as if the models might at any moment be thrown off balance by their avant-garde ensembles – a physical manifestation of Barlow’s own artistic challenge to conventional stability and form.
Barlow’s influence was deeply personal for Ilinčić, who drew parallels between the sculptor’s use of reclaimed materials and memories of post-war London with her own sustainable design approach. The final pieces in the collection were particularly poignant, constructed entirely from leftover felt from previous seasons, complete with angular cut-outs where sleeves and collars had once been – turning negative space into a powerful design element.
Across town, designer Emilia Wickstead presented a collection inspired by Hitchcock’s classic film “The Birds,” drawing from an eclectic mix of muses including author Daphne du Maurier, costume designer Edith Head, and actress Tippi Hedren. Wickstead modernized Hedren’s iconic lovebird-green suit with contemporary updates like trouser options and chunky urban boots.
“When you look at what they wore, it feels as if the style of the author and the costume designer both filter into what Hedren wears on screen,” Wickstead noted. Her collection thoughtfully explored the film’s themes of “love and acceptance and family” while incorporating subtle nods to its unsettling mood – like asymmetrically buttoned jackets that created a slightly off-kilter effect.
Both designers acknowledged the challenges currently facing London Fashion Week, with Wickstead noting that “designers are leaving London, and fewer from the international industry are coming.” Casting proved particularly difficult this season due to fewer international models traveling to London.
Despite these challenges, Ilinčić remains optimistic about London’s unique creative community. “It’s tough out there,” she admitted, “but we have to keep going. One positive about London is that we have such a strong creative community. This has always been a hard place to survive, so we support each other.”
She emphasized the continued importance of fashion shows as physical, experiential events: “I really believe fashion still needs shows, because it’s so important not to lose the magic.” This sentiment echoed throughout both presentations, which demonstrated London’s enduring capacity for artistic innovation even in challenging times.
As London Fashion Week continues to evolve, these collections stand as powerful examples of how designers can find inspiration in unexpected places – whether from the challenging sculptural works of Phyllida Barlow or the nuanced psychological tension of Hitchcock’s cinematic masterpieces – translating these influences into wearable art that pushes fashion forward while honoring creative legacies.