Pope Leo XIV’s Traditional Fashion Choices Spark Vatican Watcher Speculation
When Pope Leo XIV made his inaugural appearance on the central loggia of St. Peter’s Basilica following his election on May 8, a subtle yet significant shift immediately captured the attention of liturgical fashion aficionados worldwide. The simple white cassock and modest silver cross, characteristic of Pope Francis’s papacy, were notably absent. In their place, Pope Leo XIV donned a striking **red satin mozzetta shoulder cape**, a richly adorned **burgundy stola with intricate gold embroidery**, and a resplendent **gold cross suspended by a double-stranded silken gold cord**.
As Leo XIV’s initial weeks unfolded, the excitement within liturgical fashion-conscious Catholic circles intensified. Observers noted a discernible return to the more traditional elements of the papal wardrobe: the reappearance of **cufflinks**, distinct **white trousers**, and even touches of **lace**. These sartorial choices have sparked widespread discussion among Vatican watchers, leading to speculation: does Leo XIV’s embrace of past papal attire signify a broader return to traditional stances on more substantial policy issues, particularly after Pope Francis’s notably revolutionary papacy?
For the elite handful of liturgical tailoring shops in Rome, Pope Leo XIV’s traditional aesthetic offers a glimmer of hope. There is a palpable optimism that if Leo’s return to the fancier garb of his predecessors creates a “trickle-down effect,” it could mean a significant boon to their business, extending from the pope himself to priests and all those within the ecclesiastical hierarchy.
A Return to Form and Respect for Tradition
According to the Reverend John Wauck, a professor of church communication at the Pontifical Holy Cross University in Rome, Pope Leo XIV’s clothing choices represent a clear “return to form.” He notes that Leo’s attire closely mirrors the styles worn by Pope Benedict XVI, Pope John Paul II, and indeed, popes dating back to the Middle Ages. Reverend Wauck explains that these choices demonstrate “a respect for tradition,” a sentiment that resonates deeply with many conservative Catholics.
For a considerable segment of conservative and traditionalist Catholics, Pope Francis’s informal style and perceived disdain for tradition became a source of disillusionment. This reached its apex with his significant restrictions on the celebration of the traditional Latin Mass. This ancient liturgy, celebrated prior to the modernizing reforms of the 1960s Second Vatican Council, was greatly curtailed by Francis, who cited concerns that it had become a source of division within parishes.
Intriguingly, Pope Leo XIV has already demonstrated a strong familiarity with Latin, even singing the Sunday noontime prayer in Latin. This has led some traditionalist Catholics to fervently hope that Leo will pursue a more pro-Latin path, potentially even reversing Francis’s policy to allow greater use of the traditional Latin Mass.
However, Massimo Faggioli, a professor of theology at Villanova University (where Leo XIV attended college), advises caution, suggesting it’s too early to definitively predict if Leo will reverse Francis’s reforms. “It remains to be seen if Leo’s more traditional attire and liturgical style means that he will change Francis’ strong decisions limiting the so-called ‘Latin Mass,’” Faggioli stated. Nevertheless, Faggioli observes that U.S. conservatives, in particular, seem quite pleased with Leo’s traditional attire, especially given Pope Francis’s well-known eschewal of papal pomp and elaborate fashion. In Faggioli’s view, Francis’s stylistic choices might have been more of “a parenthesis or an interlude, more than a changer of the tradition in ‘papal style.’”
Beyond Fashion: Other Traditional Shifts
Pope Leo XIV’s embrace of tradition extends beyond his wardrobe. At his inaugural Mass on May 18, 2025, when he extended his arm to sprinkle holy water, photographers’ long lenses captured a revealing detail: a shirt with cufflinks, an item Pope Francis had largely avoided. Leo XIV was also observed wearing an **amitto**, a lacy linen cloth worn around the neck, and an **alb**, the traditional white tunic worn beneath ceremonial vestments, held in place by a **cingulum**, a braided rope belt with tassels. A seemingly minor detail, Leo’s shift from Francis’s standard black trousers to more traditional white papal trousers would have gone entirely unnoticed if not for the relentless scrutiny of photographers.
In addition to these visible clothing changes, Leo XIV has also revived other long-standing Vatican traditions that Pope Francis chose to forgo. Notably, he has shown himself willing to accept the traditional “**baciamano**,” or kissing of his ring. Pope Francis famously disliked this gesture and often pulled his hand away when someone attempted to kiss his ring.
“I think that what we see with Pope Leo is a willingness to embrace tradition, even if it risks seeming perhaps more formal than Pope Francis,” remarks Reverend Wauck. He suggests that this approach views tradition as “a treasure to be conserved and embraced as opposed to something that makes one feel perhaps a little bit standoffish.”
Another significant point of speculation revolves around Leo XIV’s living arrangements. It remains to be seen whether he will move into the papal apartment in the Apostolic Palace, which remained empty throughout Pope Francis’s 12-year papacy. Pope Francis famously broke with tradition by choosing to reside in a smaller room at the Santa Marta residence within the Vatican, preferring to eat his meals in the common dining room.
However, not everyone views these changes as momentous. According to Reverend Castro Prudencio, this entire discussion might be “much ado about nothing.” He asserts, “For Pope Francis it was simplicity. Always. And Pope Leo has taken up what Pope Benedict had and many others. That is what the church is like.” While opinions vary, Pope Leo XIV’s early choices certainly indicate a distinct stylistic and traditional leaning that has the world watching.