Gucci’s first collection under new creative director Sabato De Sarno marked a dramatic shift towards minimalism and restraint. Dubbed “Ancora”, meaning “again” in Italian, the Spring 2023 line featured muted colors like black, white and navy and spared embellishments.
Gone were the maximalist, eccentric designs that defined predecessor Alessandro Michele’s tenure. In their place, De Sarno offered an array of thigh-skimming coats, playsuits and dresses in classic silhouettes. While still inherently Gucci, touches like the house’s signature red and green webbing and GG monogram peeked through subtly.
The collection seemed to signal De Sarno’s intent on pulling Gucci in a radically new direction. While not a major statement piece, it nonetheless cleaned the slate for the designer to put his stamp on the iconic $10 billion brand. Gucci under De Sarno appears focused on effortless, day-to-day luxury rather than flash and opulence.
With pared-back pieces highlighted on celebrities like Julia Roberts, Gucci heads into its next era with a back-to-basics approach. The real test will be how De Sarno builds on this minimalist foundation in seasons to come.