Ghost Layers: The Invisible Haircut Technique That’s Getting All The Compliments

Ever found yourself in a hair rut? That’s exactly where I was after growing out my bob. My once sharp and purposeful style had become lifeless lengths falling around my shoulders, with not even my trusty claw clip able to work its usual magic. So when fate put me face-to-face with Queer Eye star and JVN Hair founder Jonathan Van Ness at his Repair range launch, I never expected to walk away with what would become my most complimented haircut ever.

Split ends made it obvious I was overdue for a trim, but before I could apologize for my hair’s condition, Van Ness already had his scissors ready. While few could convince me to agree to an impromptu haircut, he’s definitely one of them. My only stipulation? Don’t cut too much length.

To my beauty editor colleagues’ envy, Van Ness spent nearly an hour carefully snipping and perfecting. Looking at the floor afterward revealed a substantial heap of hair, yet glancing in the mirror showed what appeared to be just a refresh – my hair felt lighter, swishier, and had significantly more shape. That’s when I realized Van Ness had given me the smartest haircut trending right now: ghost layers.

What Exactly Are Ghost Layers?

Masterminded by LA-based hairstylist Ramòn Garcia, ghost layers are essentially “invisible” layers that add shape and movement while blending seamlessly into your overall length. While not a new technique, ghost layers have experienced a resurgence lately, largely thanks to the rise of ghost waves – the defining hair trend of 2025.

Ghost waves, coined by hairstylist Tom Smith (nicknamed “hairvoyant” for his trend prediction abilities), are characterized by their subtle, barely-there waves that softly undulate in an ‘s’ shape. The undetectable layers enhance these waves, creating beautiful dimension without obvious cutting lines.

Van Ness intuitively knew how to create this style. After washing my hair with JVN Revive Repairing Shampoo and Conditioner, he applied a generous pump of Revive Rapid Repair Bond Gloss from root to tip. He began by carefully dusting away split ends before adding invisible layers through my mid-lengths and ends. The critical technique, he explained, was not cutting them too short – mine end about one to two inches from the longest pieces, allowing them to camouflage perfectly into the rest of my length, even when my hair is straight.

To prevent my hair from drying in an unflattering triangular shape, Van Ness used thinning scissors to reduce bulk, making my hair easier to style and air-dry. He finished the look by cutting in a long, graduated curtain fringe for additional dimension.

Styling Ghost Layers with Waves

According to Smith, ghost layers with waves create an unexpectedly relaxed style perfect for spring. While you can style this cut with a curling wand or blowdry brush, those with natural texture can achieve accidentally perfect waves by simply air-drying. A cream-based product like JVN Hair Complete Air Dry Cream minimizes frizz and adds shine.

For enhanced waves, consider a mermaid waver (a three-barreled tong like Hershesons The Multi-Tasker) to amplify natural texture. Smith suggests using a wide-tooth comb rather than a brush to separate the waves for that coveted lived-in appearance.

My personal styling routine involves spritzing Typebea’s S.2 Sea Salt Texture Mist into towel-dried hair for hold and heat protection before blow-drying with a paddle brush. I then use my ghd Chronos Hair Straightener to create delicate bends by twisting the straightener halfway through each pass, creating soft, natural-looking waves. I finish by running my fingers through my hair to break up the waves for an effortlessly tousled result.

The Magic of Ghost Layers

While the styling is relatively simple, what makes ghost layers truly special is how seamlessly they grow out. Unlike other layered styles that eventually create obvious step-like effects, ghost layers maintain a smooth transition as they grow. The compliments I’ve received have been an unexpected bonus – no previous haircut has garnered as much positive attention, with people consistently commenting on how much fuller and healthier my hair appears.

Perhaps best of all, the invisible layers and feathery curtain bangs add beautiful shape to my hair, making it look fantastic without requiring excessive styling. It’s the perfect low-maintenance cut with maximum impact.

How to Ask Your Stylist for Ghost Layers

If your hairstylist isn’t familiar with ghost layers and waves, simply request soft, subtle layers that enhance your natural texture. A fringe is optional but adds nice dimension. For a more polished finish, ask for gentle bends created with a straightener or flat curling iron – many salons use tools like ghd’s Curve Classic Wave Wand.

While getting my hair cut by Jonathan Van Ness may have been a once-in-a-lifetime experience, I’ll definitely be requesting ghost layers from my regular hairstylist from now on. The undetectable layers and the beautiful way they take shape when styled have completely won me over – making this the ultimate haircut for anyone wanting high-impact hair with minimal daily effort.